chill
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by chill on Jan 6, 2007 23:59:01 GMT -5
Hello, I just begun cleaning up my old roadster I drove 35 years ago. I loved it when I got it in 1972 and have stored it over the years. Couple questions, fenders got rusty, I have removed all rust with a wire wheel on my grinder and they look good however I know rust will reappear soon, short of getting them rechromed what is the best way to try and keep them from rusting? Should I spray them with a clear coat? Also, engine was not running very well, I would like to rebuild carb and engine. What are main items to change when rebuilding the engine, I thought a gasket kit, new rings and perhaps crankshaft bearings. Anything else I should be looking at? Thanks, chill
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Post by bikerider on Jan 8, 2007 19:27:00 GMT -5
Chill,I'm also in the process of rebuilding a Rupp Enduro. A powder coat shop told me that they would spray clear coat over the chrome to protect it. When I cleaned up my fenders, which had been painted over by the previous owner I used Cycle Care's Formula 33 and 0000 ultra fine steal wool and they cleaned up great. In the engine department I contacted my local small gas engine shop and acquired the spec. sheet on the motor. Come to find out the crankshaft at the connecting rod journal was .014 undersized (worn) the cylinder bore was over sized along with the piston and rings and the tappets were shot. Yikes!!! If I re bore without replacing the crankshaft it's not likely that the connecting rod is going to last long due to the added compression from the re bore. Bad news was, that this particular crank is a Rupp specific crank built by Tecumseh, good luck finding one if yours is shot and I'm told that 100% of them are.The up side is that Brandt from this very Web Site stocks a crank that is close enough and he says he has used it in many rebuilds and it works just fine. I believe he said it sells for $95.00. He also has a wealth of information on rebuilding Rupps as he's done many. He can be reached at RuppParts@aol.com. I got lucky, the small gas engine shop happened to have boxes of old stock Tecumseh parts ( new in the box but old stuff) in his attic and he had a crank that was identical to the Rupp crank (part #33080) except the flywheel end that is tapered had a different taper on it and the threads were a little bigger. the threads aren't a problem, just use a bigger nut, and the taper problem was rectified by my buddy who owns a machine shop. He simply matched the old taper from the Rupp crank and turned the new one on his lathe. Works great. The part # for that crank is 34734A. I think he had two of them so if you find yours is bad post your E-Mail address and I can put you in touch with him. Hope this helps and I'd really be interested in hearing how everything turns out on your rebuild. Good luck, Bikerider
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chill
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by chill on Jan 14, 2007 23:52:13 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Rider, I've cleaned up fenders and clear coated to protect them, came out pretty nice, painted frame, just have to clean out gas tank, then the engine work. I'll post a photo later....hopefully running !
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Post by racerx on Jan 29, 2007 13:29:24 GMT -5
Hi Chill-
I too have a 1970 Roadster and would love to see the photos of your restoration when it is done.
As you probably know, some of the funny things about the 1970 model is that Rupp used 10" wheels and also had an exhaust pipe that situated itself outside the seat, instead of underneath it. I have more than my share of thigh burns to know Rupp had to have figured out that their muffler was not one of their finest design features. Indeed, they changed the design the following year. Still, the 1970 Roadster is a great little ride and hopefully you will get to ride yours soon.
...by the way, I am in the process of buying a new "Black Widow" exhaust pipe from Brandt instead of going through another season of scortched skin!
Have a riot,
RacerX
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